Food-related writing

The Picnic - July 2004

Once something of an English institution, The Picnic seems to have bifurcated from its original path into two different versions. My intention is to revive the original tradition, though with a hint of the Gallic – the French reverence for food is something to be admired. But first, what has become of the tradition? Modern living, with its instant culture, has robbed the collective psyche of the pleasures of preparation and anticipation, creating the following scenarios:

1. For many people, the nearest they get to a picnic is some MSG-infused ready ‘meal’ purchased at a drive-through establishment, stuffed down unceremoniously at the wheel of the car, probably whilst still driving and on the ‘phone.

2. Those retaining some sense of style and possessing large disposable incomes may simply buy a ready-made picnic hamper and take it to some suitable event (Glyndebourne is the archetype) for consumption.

Whilst scenario 2 is infinitely preferable, for me it still misses some essential features – the planning, the food preparation, the wine selection, the personalisation of the whole experience. So, the antidote to the problem:

1. Who’s going? Ensure the group members are all compatible – avoid the pub bore, the weepy neurotic or the one-sniff-of-the-barmaid’s-apron-“You taking the piss or wot?” types. Ideally, a small group of aesthetes make the best company: Epicurus would agree!
2. Choose your recipes – ensure that there is sufficient food for the number of people (more people means the possibility of more choice), and also that at least a significant proportion of the food can be prepared the day before. Also, better to use mainly store-cupboard ingredients to allow for our famously unreliable weather.
3. Choose the wines. Essential unless everyone’s teetotal (how did you end up here?) – nothing too serious, definitely no reds needing decanting. We like to take a sparkler and a rosé but as with food, more people = potentially more choice. Further recommendations would be English whites (light and fragrant), Beaujolais and Loire reds.
4. Decide on the location. Ideal is within walking distance so all participants can drink, otherwise it’s the bus or taxi, or one of you drives, or you get a non-participating driver to do the ferrying. Wherever you go, make sure it’s suitably isolated – you don’t want to be gawped at by the hoi-polloi. And don’t forget to ensure that there’s some shade – if it gets really hot, this is so necessary. But most importantly, the location should be pleasing in itself: a fine view over a valley; close to a stream; a private nook; a forest glade… there are many possibilities.
5. Ensure your checklist is complete – see below.
6. Keep a close eye on the weather. If it’s all systems go a couple of days before, it’s time to get into full swing.
7. Go to it, and good luck!

Picnic checklist:

• The obvious – people, food, wine (I wonder if anyone’s ever forgotten a guest?).
• Food containers, wine coolers.
• Containers for transportation – bags, rucksacks, hampers…
• Plates, glasses, cutlery (include serving spoons!), corkscrew, foil cutter.
• Groundsheet, tablecloth, cloths for wrapping the glasses.
• Your finest mood!

Need recipes? Check these out.

Analogues (Meat and Dairy Substitutes) - May-04

This subject is often a thorny one with veg*ns and carnivores alike. To lambast or to lionise, that is the question. The two principal schools of thought may be summarised as follows:

Against - there is a sufficiently abundant plant-based world cuisine using natural ingredients; imitating animal-based foodstuffs simply propagates the myth that veg*ns are 'missing out' on something, that animal products are superior. Besides, they're not 'natural'.
For - provided that no creature dies, it doesn't matter what you eat - this is the heart of the vegan philosophy, anything else is just empty, pointless philosophising. If they help people give up meat, then analogues are a positive thing.

There isn't actually anything wrong with either argument, it's just that both are limited. Tofu, for instance, is well-regarded as a 'traditional' oriental foodstuff. More careful thinking reveals it to be a processed food. Just because the process has a long history doesn't change its nature. Just because modern processes are more high-tech doesn't mean they are any less 'valid'. Therefore any arguments based on analogues being 'processed' foods fall rather flat, unless the person is a raw-fooder or fruitarian. And let's face it, few could stick to such dietary regimes, healthy though they may be.

Bearing in mind the above, time will play a part, indeed perhaps already has. What today is seen as 'an imitation of...' may tomorrow be regarded as something in its own right. For instance, the branded mushroom-protein-based Quorn (its dubious status regarding use of battery-farmed eggs is not the issue here) has taken on its own identity, rather than being regarded as any one specific substitute.

Whilst it is true that soya is fashioned into specific substitutes, and that these are indeed stepping stones to ease the dietary transition for the weaker-willed, these products will gradually acquire a wider consumer base as they begin to appeal to the curious, the health-conscious and, especially in the case of dairy substitutes, to those with allergies.

So although I am definitely 'for' analogues, agreeing that they correspond to the core veg*n philosophy, I would not say that a deeper consideration is pointless. But it should be considered who are the people who hold the 'against' viewpoint. My belief is that it will really only be espoused by die-hard carnivores and hard-line vegans alike - and since neither party will change its viewpoint, the issue becomes moot. Bring on the analogues, and let's enjoy a more varied, healthy and cruelty-free diet.

Sprouting Seeds (and Pulses and Nuts...) - Apr-04

This is a new activity we've taken up, both from a health and gourmet point of view. Nutritionists have nothing bad to say about eating freshly sprouting seeds - the enzymes triggered by the presence of water begin to unlock the store of nutrients and make them more easily available for our digestive systems.

Do they taste good? Most definitely - the closest comparator is probably between fresh-picked peas and peapods, though each type of seed brings its own unique flavour to the mix, so it's worth trying a few.

Is it difficult and time-consuming? No! You'll need a couple of jars, some muslin-like material (net-curtains are fine) and rubber bands (or you can shell out on proper sprouting jars with integral lid-filters). Soak the seeds for up to 24 hours then drain well, re-cover and leave in a light temperate spot, say a kitchen window with no direct sunlight. Rinse and drain on a daily basis. Depending on type, they're ready to eat in 2 to 4 days and will keep, with the same treatment, for about as long again. Best use organic seeds - see chart for details of those we've already tried.

How to use them? On sandwiches and in salads are the most obvious ways, but they might be used as a garnish for soups, starters, stir-fries.... Links to recipes are provided below:

Rice and Alfalfa Sprout Salad with Pesto Dressing
Thai-style Sprout and Tofu Salad
Tofu, Lentil and Sprout Salad in Pitta